Spicy Mushroom Miso Ramen

1. Make the mushroom stock: Place the dried shiitake mushrooms and kombu a pot with the water. Bring the water almost to a boil and then turn down the heat to maintain a simmer. Cook for 5 minutes.

2. Remove the pot from the heat and let the stock stand for 3 minutes. Strain the stock through a fine-mesh strainer and set the stock aside.

3. Make the soup: Heat 3 teaspoons of the toasted sesame oil in a large skillet or wok over high heat. Add the sliced cremini mushrooms and cook for about 20 seconds. Drizzle in the remaining 1 teaspoon of toasted sesame oil, then add the finely chopped garlic and crushed red chili flakes, and stir-fry for another 20 seconds.

4. Pour the mushroom stock through a fine-mesh strainer held directly over the pan. (Discard the solids left in the strainer.) Adjust the heat to maintain a steady simmer, and separate the cooked noodles into 3 or 4 bowls.

5. Place the shiro miso and aka miso in a small bowl and ladle some of the hot stock from the pan into the bowl. Whisk the miso pastes and broth together until smooth, then add to the simmering stock in the pan.

6. Turn off the heat, then ladle the broth over the noodles in each bowl. Garnish with fresh cilantro leaves and serve immediately.