Roasted Cauliflower and Smoked Cheddar Gratin

Preheat oven to 425 F. Grease an 8 by 10 inch rectangular dish (at least 1½” depth) with 1 teaspoon of butter. Toss cauliflower pieces with oil, ½ teaspoon salt, and ¼ teaspoon pepper on a rimmed baking sheet. Spread into an even layer. Roast it for about 8 minutes in the lower third of the oven, until just beginning to brown. Remove cauliflower from oven and reduce oven to 375 F.

Press firmly on an even layer of caraway seeds on a cutting board with a rolling pin, pan, or heavy baking dish to crush them (they’ll stay intact but become fragrant and release flavor later). Heat the crushed seeds, milk, onion, and bay leaf in a small saucepan over medium high. When just boiling, turn off heat and allow to steep.

Melt 2 tablespoons butter in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Add flour and stir constantly for 2 to 3 minutes, to cook the raw taste out of the flour. Slowly pour in warm milk mixture, including additions, while whisking to combine. Increase heat slightly to bring to a simmer, while whisking or stirring with a wooden spoon. Maintain a gentle simmer and stir constantly until thickened, 6 to 7 minutes. Season white sauce with ¾ teaspoon salt and ¼ teaspoon pepper, or to taste.

Melt the last tablespoon of butter in the microwave (about 45 seconds on 50% power) and stir it into the breadcrumbs to coat.

To assemble, spread cauliflower evenly into the prepared baking dish. Cover with half the grated cheddar, then pour white sauce evenly over the top, removing the bay leaf. Sprinkle with remaining cheese, then top with the buttered breadcrumbs.

Bake assembled gratin at 375 F for 30 minutes or until top begins to brown. If not golden after 30 minutes, heat about 8 inches from the broiler for a few minutes, or until desired shade is reached.

Cool for a few minutes, then dust with paprika, if using. Scoop onto plates to serve, trying to keep the breadcrumb topping face up.

Notes: To make fresh breadcrumbs, remove crusts from sturdy fresh bread. Cut into large chunks and pulse in the food processor until desired crumb size and uniformity is reached, a minute or two.

Inspired by and adapted from Cauliflower Gratin with Smoked Cheddar and Caraway from Deborah Madison’s The New Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone.