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Spaghetti alla Puttanesca is also called Spaghetti alle Vongole Fujute (spaghetti with escaped clams), the latter name derived from the fact that it was a poor person’s version of Spaghetti alle Vongole (clams were, in early times, too expensive for the poor, and thus were said to have “escaped”).
Spaghetti alla Puttanesca translates literally as “Whore’s Spaghetti.” Neapolitan tradition claims that the name is derived from the fact that good-hearted Neapolitan prostitutes would prepare the dish for their clients from ingredients found in every Neapolitan kitchen and that the most visited ladies were the ones that made the best spaghetti. In Naples, I guess the stomach rules the heart!
1. Over high heat, bring a large pot of heavily salted water to the boil to cook the spaghetti.
2. Rinse the anchovies (if used) and capers in cold water to remove the saltiness.
3. Put oil in a large sauce pan over medium heat. When the oil heats up, add the garlic, pepper flakes, and anchovies and sauté, stirring constantly (about 4 minutes). Do not allow the garlic to brown!
4. When the oil becomes fragrant, add the capers and olives and continue sautéing for a few minutes, stirring often. Lower the heat to low and keep the sauce warm.
5. Cook spaghetti in boiling water until al dente. Drain, reserving about ½ cup of the cooking water to “loosen” the sauce if seems too “tight.”
6. Add the chopped tomatoes and most of the basil (reserve a little to dress) to the sauce, stirring or tossing to combine and heat the tomatoes through (the idea is not to cook the tomatoes but only to heat them through).
7. Add the cooked and drained spaghetti to the pan and toss to coat with the sauce and correct seasoning. Divide among the serving plates, dress each with chiffonade basil and serve accompanied by grated Parmesan or Romano cheese and crusty French or Italian bread.
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