Zucchini Spaghetti with Blistered Olives

If you have time, let the goat cheese come to room temperature for half an hour. Warm the tomato sauce, stir in goat cheese until melted and fully incorporated, and keep warm over low heat.

Preheat oven to 425ºF. Drain (don’t rinse) and lightly dry olives on a paper towel. Spread on a rimmed baking sheet and toss with 1 teaspoon olive oil, vinegar, a few grinds of black pepper, and the herb sprigs, if using. Bake 20–25 minutes, on middle oven rack, stirring once or twice, until blistered and a bit wrinkled. When cool enough to handle, roughly chop half the olives, then combine all olives in a small bowl. Olives can be served warm or room temperature.

Spiralize zucchini on thick noodle setting, or make noodles with a julienne peeler. Place in a bowl lined with a paper towel to remove some of the moisture.

Turn on broiler (to high, if that’s an option). Place “noodles” on a large rimmed baking sheet. Melt butter and combine with 2 generous tablespoons of oil, then drizzle mixture over zucchini. Toss to coat well and sprinkle with pepper only. Broil about 6 inches from heat for 10–15 minutes, tossing or turning once or twice. When done, noodles should be tender and beginning to brown. Sprinkle with salt.

To serve, spoon warm goat cheese sauce over each helping of zucchini spaghetti, then top with a fourth of the olives, more pepper, and a dusting of lemon zest, if using. Twirl away and enjoy!