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A slight adaptation from my bacon-filled version, this risotto gets deep, smoky flavor from oven roasted scallions and smoked paprika. Who needs bacon now?
Preheat oven to 375 F and move rack to the bottom third of the oven. Arrange scallions in a single layer on a baking sheet. Use a brush to coat them all over with up to ½ tablespoon olive oil, and sprinkle with a pinch of salt. Roast for 13 to 15 minutes, turning halfway through, until light golden and soft when gently squeezed. Remove from oven and let them cool slightly, then slice about ⅛ inch thick, discarding dark green tops and root ends.
Combine broth or stock and water in a medium saucepan, bring to a simmer, then reduce heat to low and cover to keep warm.
In a Dutch oven or large saucepan, melt butter over medium heat. Add sweet potato cubes, ½ teaspoon salt, and a pinch of pepper. Stir to coat, spread into a single layer, then cook undisturbed for 3 to 4 minutes. Continue to cook for 8 to 10 minutes, stirring occasionally, until most of the potatoes are browned on most sides. When potatoes are almost browned, sprinkle ¼ teaspoon smoked paprika into pan and stir (adding toward the end prevents the spice from burning.). Remove potatoes to a separate dish.
Heat remaining 1½ tablespoons olive oil in the same pan over medium until hot and shimmering. Add yellow onion and cook a few minutes until just softened. Add garlic and cook another minute, until fragrant. Add rice and stir to coat it in the oil. Cook 1 to 2 minutes, stirring constantly, until rice becomes translucent around the edges. Pour wine into the pan, scraping the bottom to deglaze. Adjust heat so liquid comes to a low simmer, then cook, stirring frequently, until liquid is nearly gone (about a minute).
Over the next 20 to 25 minutes, ladle or scoop warm broth, ½ to 1 cup at a time, into the pot with the rice. After each addition, stir almost constantly and adjust heat as needed to maintain gentle bubbling. Constant stirring prevents rice from sticking to the pan. When each addition of broth is almost absorbed, add the next portion.
After using up half the liquid, start tasting the rice a minute or two before the liquid is fully absorbed. Each batch of risotto can require a slightly different amount of liquid, but a creamy risotto, in this case, should use most or all of the broth. Reserve at least ¼ cup of broth to finish the risotto.
When the rice tastes done–not at all raw, but not mushy–turn off heat and add another ¼ cup broth. Stir in sour cream, then stir in cheddar until melted. Finally, add the majority of the sweet potatoes (reserving a few for garnish), roasted scallions, ½ teaspoon smoked paprika, and salt and pepper to taste. Start with 1 teaspoon salt and ¼ teaspoon pepper.
Serve in bowls, or as a side dish, garnished with chives and reserved sweet potato cubes.
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