IMPORTANT: Prick the surface of each eggplant several times with the tines of a fork.
On the grill or under the broiler (set to high) blacken/char the eggplant for 25 minutes or so. You want the skin to be completely shriveled and dark, and the eggplant almost fall-apart tender. Just when you think it’s shriveled, let it go another five minutes.
Set them aside to cool slightly.
When cool, peel off skin enough to get a spoon into each eggplant and scrape out the flesh into a bowl. Try to get as much as you can, even the stuff that’s stuck to the inside of the skin. (This process is a total mess, so don’t worry.)
Mash eggplant with a fork. A few large chunks are fine, but try to get it to a relatively smooth texture without being totally pureed.
Add in all other ingredients, stirring and tasting before adjusting seasonings or other ingredients. Don’t undersalt!
Serve with pita triangles, baguette slices, chips, crusty French bread…or with a spoon.